DIY Kitchen Island Update

(Kitchen Update Part 1)

Kitchen Island Update. Give your kitchen some WOW by updating a plain builder-grade kitchen island with trim. Easily customize the design to fit your home style. No mitered corners necessary!

If you haven’t heard me say this before, I will say it again. My house is the epitome of early 2000’s builder grade blah. For me, that means creamy flat wall paint, gold hardware, and honey oak everywhere. No customization or color to be found!

Luckily, updating a kitchen island using lumber and trim isn’t too difficult. Here I will show you how to achieve this customized look without needing to miter any corners. Of course you could miter the corners if you wanted. However, I don’t have a table saw and many beginner DIY’ers don’t either!

Kitchen Island Update Time Frame

This kitchen island update took about 5 days to complete (I am working around school pick-ups, working full time, a sick kid and well kid, and paint dry times, etc.). The point: I’m busy and so are you; but DIY can be done. A little here and a little there. This time also includes prep time for painting, and painting too.

I’ve included a few affiliate links so you can find the exact products I use at no additional cost to you. For full disclosure statement, click here.

Materials.

• 1×4 select pine boards
• 1×6 select pine boards
• 1×2 select pine boards
• Shoe molding
• 1/4 ply wood board, 1 sheet that measured 4′ x 8′ was plenty for my 4′ island
• Brad nails 1″ and 1.5″
• Joint compound
• Paintable caulk
• Primer
• Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, Color: Naval

Tools for Kitchen.

• Miter saw
• Jig saw
• Brad nailer or hammer and nails
• Caulk gun
• 2″ joint knife
• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Level
• Clamps
• Hand sander (220 grit and 400 grit paper)

How to Update a Kitchen Island.

Here are the instructions so that you too can customize the boring builder grade island into something uniquely yours.

1. Planning.

Planning for a kitchen island update starts with finding inspiration then thinking about what you need to buy. Make your measurements once you have decided on a layout plan to prevent over/under buying of materials. For this particular project, I can’t give exact measurements as my island is likely different in size than yours. However, I will label the size boards used in certain areas.

Think about characteristics you may need to work around. In this case, I have 1/4″ lip on the front of the island for the cabinet frame. On the back side of the island there was a faux wood grain paper looking material that had began to peel up and fall off.

Luckily, there is a single solution for both problems. 1/4″ plywood cut to fit on all sides and the back made the 1/4″ lip “disappear” while also covering the peeling paper on the back side.

2. Preparation.

Through preparation will make the end product of this makeover look seamless and help the paint to last. I recommend following all steps to ensure best results.

• Empty Island. Remove all items stored in the island and the drawers as saw dust, paint, and joint compound can make their way into your pots and pans. Now is a good time to remove any quarter round or trim from the bottom of the cabinet as well as the corner edging.
• Remove Hardware and Doors/Drawers. Begin by removing all cabinet doors and drawers. Then, remove hardware (pulls and hinges). Put hardware in a baggie, label, and set aside in a location you will not forget (like the kitchen window or taped in the cabinet).
• Clean Island, Doors and Drawers. Begin by cleaning all cabinet surfaces with soap and water. If tough grimy residue still on cabinets move onto Krud Kutter. In my opinion, it is the best for tough grease and grime. After following the directions on the bottle, wipe clean. Rinse with clean water.
• Sand. Sand all cabinet surfaces, doors, and drawer fronts using 220 grit sand paper. Sanding helps remove imperfections, splinters, and helps rough up the surface you are going to be painting to help with paint adhesion.

3. Plywood Wrap.

Once the island is prepped, move onto wrapping the island in 1/4″ plywood. This step is optional, but helpful is you have peeling paper, dented/damaged wood, or need a clean smooth surface to work with. For this, measure both sides of the island individually. For a basic 40″ long island, one 4′ x 8′ piece of plywood was enough without a lot of waste. Cut the plywood to size using a jigsaw. It is helpful to clamp a straight piece of scrap wood along where you will be cutting.

Dry fit the sides to make sure they fit. Don’t worry if there is a small 1/4″-1/2″ gap between the top of the plywood and your counter, that will be covered later. Now is a good time to make cut-outs for outlets or toe kick area. Personally, I cut out for the toe kick, but later ran vertical boards from under counter to floor. Thus making cutting out for the toe kick on the plywood unnecessary. For easy transfer of outlet location to plywood, I used the tooth paste trick! Click here, to learn more about that.

After ensuring the plywood sides fit well, sand the plywood (outdoors) with 220 grit sand paper until smooth. I recommend doing the sanding before attaching plywood to island as sanding inside is MESSY. Once sanded, using a nail gun with 1″ nails, attach the 1/4 plywood sides to your island sides around the parameter.

After securing each side, the edges that back up to the island back side (the side without doors and drawers) should be flush with the original cabinet back. If so, measure the back side and cut 1/4″ plywood to size. Dry fit the back, make any cuts for outlets, and sand before attaching to island with 1″ nails around the parameter.

4. Cutting and Board Attachment.

Vertical Boards

Once 1/4: plywood wrap is complete, move on to the part where your island makeover really takes shape; adding boards and trim. For this look, start by measuring the floor to the underside of the counter. Then cut 6-1×4″ boards. My measurement, for instance was 34.25″.

Then, attach 1×4″ boards vertically to the back side corners of the island (1.25 ” brad nails). After the backside 1×4″ is attached, clamp another 1×4 board to each of the island sides creating a corner.

Clamps will help keep the boards in place while you secure them as well as keeps boards flush. This will create a perfect corner look without mitering. Secure the clamped board with 1.25″ brad nails. I personally did not use any wood glue or liquid nails on this, but I know so many people do. Choose whatever you think is best. I went crazy with the nails and just spackled the holes after completion.

After the back corners are created, attach 1×4″ boards to each side of the island where the face-frame is. Use clamps to make flush and keep boards in position while securing.

Yes, there were a lot of nail holes to fill. One could probably use a screw, or liquid nails to help secure together with less nails. I chose a lot of nails.

Take a moment and look at all those nail holes. Yes, they all will have to be filled later! ha

Horizontal board attachment.

For lower base boards, use 1×6″ boards for a thicker look. The upper boards that line up with the underside of the counter are 1×4″. Measure the distance between each vertical 1×4″ board on the back and sides, make cuts accordingly. The sides were .5 ” difference, I recommend measuring each side individually so that your boards fit well.

Once cut, make sure the 1×6″ base board is level before securing using 1.25″ nails. Repeat this process for the upper 1×4″ boards. Don’t worry much about gaps between the floor and the 1×6 base boards; these will be covered. Additionally, For me, the upper gap will be covered by new counters! If you are not getting new counters, use trip placement to hide any gaps that may be visible.

Chunky Bottom Trim

Adding the “chunk” to the base of the 1×6″ is simple. Cut 2-1x6x 6.25″ boards that will go on the island back side in each corner. Then cut 4-1x6x 5.25″ boards for each bottom corner on the island sides. Again, clamp each piece into place and use 1.25″ nails to secure. Ensure these pieces are flush with one another in the corners and on any seams (use clamps!) including flush with the floor.

Covering Base board Gaps

To cover the small gaps between the long 1×6″ base boards, cut shoe molding to size and secure using 1″ nails. There are many different trim styles, sizes, etc.. Play around with different pieces until you find a look you like that covers gaps as needed.

After I thought I was done adding trim and boards, I felt like the backside of the island needed something else. Therefore, 1×2″ boards running vertically, evenly space and level were attached to the back side of the island using 1.25″ nails. This could have been done after adding the 1×6″ base boards and under counter 1×4″ boards. It didn’t add any extra work doing it later. To help these boards sit flush use wood shims behind 1×2″ boards. All seams will be caulked.

5. Caulk and Spackle.

After all trim and boards are attached it’s time to fill nail holes and caulk the seams. This tedious and time consuming step is the difference between a seamless professional looking island and an armature job.

Take the time to fill and sand down any nail holes and large seams. Wipe the boards clean from dust. Caulk all the long seams and anywhere two boards/ boards and cabinets meet. Wipe away excess caulk with a wet finger or baby wipes.

6. Prime and Paint.

After all caulk is dried and spackle sanded smooth (wiped clean!) it’s time to prime and paint. Click here for an in-depth look at how to paint cabinets to last.

Cost

To keep costs down, use items you already have, for me that was scrap lumbar, tools, primer, and paint.

Materials:

• Wood and nails: $110.00 (this includes all select pine boards and a ply wood sheet)

Disclaimer: Wood prices are outrageous right now, hopefully by the time you are planning to update your kitchen island lumbar prices go down some.

Project Notes.

• This can be done easily with only one person.
• Don’t worry about how the seams or nail holes look, those will all be filled with spackle or caulk. Don’t be afraid to re spackle a seam if you are not happy with it!
• After adding trim, the island is not loo large for the counter, no biggie; I have been planning to have new counters for some time. However, if you are not getting new counters, plan accordingly.

For more DIY home projects, click: here