How to Fix a Patio Paver Edge

An uneven paver patio edge looks terrible and can be a tripping hazard. After reading this post, you too will know exactly how to repair a failing patio paver edge.

I have been looking at a lumpy bumpy paver patio edge that has more than failed. This edge is so bad the concrete edge is cracked, the weeds are growing up thought it, and 3 rows of bricks have shifted significantly.

So… What is it that has been keeping me from fixing this?

It’s simple really. I knew this project would be a ton of physically demanding work and I did not have a place to dispose of the old cement. While this project was much overdue, I needed a nudge. That nudge happened to be a perfect storm of YouTube motivation (people doing projects motivates me to do projects) and my dad needing fill material (the cement).

There’s the motivation I have been looking for to tackle this project. As a note, I was right, this project was demanding; I was incredibly sore for 3 days after. In total, it took me around 4 days to complete due to spring weather (rain) and life :). Without either of those interruptions, this could be completed in about 2 full days of work.

Thoughts on Paver Patios

While I do not LOVE paver patios as there is a certain degree of upkeep (weeding, applying sand, etc.), my husband laid this paver patio himself (many years ago). With his desire to keep the patio (ugh!) and my desire to save money (I’m not ready to shell out $15,000) we will keep the paver patio. Meanwhile, I will keep what we have looking nice.

If you haven’t already, check out this blog post which details a few of my most used beginner tools for DIY fans and homeowners. I’ve included a few affiliate links so you can find the exact products I use. For full disclosure statement, click here.

Tools and Supplies

Tools

• Wheelbarrow (would make removal so much easier, all I had was a dinky garden cart in the beginning)
• Hammer
• Rubber mallet
• Chisel
• Pry bar
• Gloves
• Power washer
• 10″ taping blade from the painting section (worked great to even out the sand)
• Shovel
• Manual edging blade
• Diamond blade Dremel
• Reciprocating saw
• Protective gloves, eye shield, dust mask (you only get one body… protect it)

Supplies

• Paver base 1 (maybe)
• Paver base 2
• Polymeric sand
• Pavers
• Plastic edging
• Plastic 8-10” spikes (galvanized spikes hold up better, but are more costly and harder ti find)

Steps to Repair a Failed Paver Patio Edge

1. Removal of failed paver patio edge material

Pick a spot, any spot and begin removing whatever is “holding” the patio edge together. In this case it is concrete. You may only have to repair a small stretch of the patio. For this project, the outer concrete barrier and 3 rows of pavers needed repair. It is recommended that the surrounding pavers within a 16″ radius of the “problem” be repaired as well.

This started off easy enough, taking a pry bar and sliding it under the edge where the grass meets concrete, pry upward. With gloved hands, remove edging.

Issue one: Concrete on pavers

After removing the walkway concrete, the patio concrete did come up as easy. Concrete stuck in large chunks to many of the pavers. For this issue, take the brick and throw it down on a hard surface, the cement will break off (pretty clean). Only 2 bricks broke doing this (luckily there are 25 spare ones). Using a hammer and chisel, remove any remaining concrete from the bricks.

After the edge is removed, remove as many pavers as you need to adjust. For me that was 3 rows (about 350 pavers). If pavers are still aligned correctly you can skip over this part. Mine were not. Taking out three rows was enough to fix the shifting outer edge.

2. Haul away Debris

Cement was put in the trailer to be hauled off while the pavers were taken to the drive way for cleaning. Keeping a clean work space prevents tripping on pavers!

3. Clean all pavers well

Once all three rows of patio pavers are removed, find a place to power wash them (a driveway works well for this). I laid them all out and gave the tops and sides a good wash (the bottoms were clean enough). This will remove any dirt or polymeric sand that is stuck to them. Now if a good time to remove any remaining concrete from the side of the bricks. A hammer and chisel work well for this.

While the bricks are drying head back to the area needing attention. Remove any weeds, grass, or other materials that are in the way. I was left with a lot of clumps of polymetric sand and weeds. Allow enough room for the plastic edge barrier to sit flat.

Side note: I decided to go with another row of bricks on the outer edge so I had to remove more grass with a manual edger.

Tip: If trying to match pavers you already have with new, take your old paver to the store with you to make sure it is the same. I thought I had the exact same one except it was .2 of an inch shorter than my old pavers. This was discovered after loading 160 pavers onto a cart, then onto the truck, then onto my porch. *sighs* It would be a project with something like this happening. PAY ATTENTION TO THE MEASUREMENTS.

Cleaning your workspace is also recommended. After hauling away all the materials you won’t be using or need a good cleaning, sweep up any remaining debris. Then take leaf blower and blow all remaining dust and dirt off the patio.

4. Level Base Materials

Smooth and level the base materials existing after removing edging and pavers. Be sure not to remove too much of the base material while cleaning up the weeds, grass, and concrete remains. Add paver sand as needed to create a level base to replace the pavers onto. I used paver base 2 only as I still had plenty of base 1 left in those areas.

A 10” painters blade works great to even out the area of base materials. Once level stand back and make sure everything looks good. Before moving to the next step, if the paver base is dry lightly mist water over it to help tamping in the next step.

5. Tamp. Compress.

When base materials are set and level tamp all areas to compress. Here a 10″ tamp is used to achieve paver base compression. Once all of the area is compressed with the tamp the pavers are ready to be placed.

Tip: Be sure not to step where you have already leveled and tamped as this will result in uneven pavers.

*All pictures of me tamping were accidentally deleted. Ugh!

6. Lay Pavers

Once all base materials are compressed and level, lay pavers in the desired pattern. While placing pavers take a rubber mallet and beat the pavers into place if any stick up. Take a level and look every so often to make sure things look good and are level.

7. Making Paver Cuts

Problem 2: Cutting Pavers to Size

Cutting pavers ended up being another challenge. Even with the correct masonry blade I was not able to use a saw to cut the pavers. Huge Bummer.

How to cut a brick paver:

What ended up working was a brick cutting chisel 4” and a Dremel tool with diamond blade. Mark the pavers the desired length then make an incision all the way around the paver with the Dremel tool. Then take the brick cutting chisel and finish it up turning the paver every few blows of the hammer.

Here is a good video explaining how to cut pavers with a chisel and hammer.

A grinder would also work (probably the best choice) to cut pavers. However, a grinder has not yet been added to my tool collection. One day….

8. Paver Patio Edge Barrier

After all pavers are placed, attach your outer edge barrier (concrete or plastic). I opted to try plastic edging this time. Galvanized metal spikes are the best choice as they rust into the ground over time causing a better hold. However, all I could get my hands on were standard plastic ones.

The plastic edging was very easy to work with and came in 6’ strips.

Lay the plastic edging down tight to the pavers outer edge and place a spike every 12”-18” and at the end of each 6’ strip. Hammer spikes in at an angle.

To cut the edging I used a reciprocating saw.

9. Add Sand

Once pavers and paver edging are in place take a step back and make sure everything looks level. If any pavers are sticking up, now is the time to beat them down with a rubber mallet. If everything is looking good it is time to sand the pavers.

Sweep polymeric sand into all joints. Remove any excess sand by sweeping it off. Once excess sand is removed, mist over the area you just fixed and filled with water.

Tip: be sure to remove excess polymeric sand from paver faces as it will cause a film over them.

10. Soil and seed

Once the barrier is placed and spikes are driven, cover the edging up to the pavers with top soil. Plant grass seed in any areas that need it or if your are able to roll the grass back on top that was cut away (I was able to do this in some parts). This will keep the edging material in place.

Relax. The Paver Patio Edge is DONE.

Now your project is complete. Congrats if you made it this far with me. I found this to be such hard work. Moving the bricks back and forth, tamping, and removing the concrete were the worst. This project is not particularly difficult, but it is a lot physically if you have a large area to replace. In total the patio is about 500 square feet and there is a 100 square foot walkway that needed repair.

One Year Update

After I completed this project a year ago and the pavers were out in the harsh winter weather (freeze, thaw, ice, etc.) I wanted to give an update. The revised paver patio edging has held up well. The grass planed only took in certain spots, I may try replanting grass this year. I have also been looking at adding a mulch area to surround paver edge…

While the plastic spikes have been fine so far, I de believe that metal would have been best (they were out of stock at the time).

Do you have a paver patio or stamped concrete? Do you do annual upkeep to keep the patio looking new or does yours need some TLC? Let me know in the comments section below.

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